Pruning Apple Trees

Apple trees, as with many fruit trees, should be pruned while they are dormant. I do mine about now because soon the maple sap will start running and from there on it seems we just get busier and busier. My pictures didn't turn out very good so these will have to do. In this picture I am indicating a sucker or shoot coming up from the base of the tree. Always remove all of these. The basic principle  to keep in mind when pruning your apple trees is to open up the center of the tree. Those branches that go towards the center of the tree should be removed.

Branches that form a very sharp "v" should also be removed since they will be weaker than a more square joint and more likely to split under the weight of a good crop of apples. Cut the limb off with a very sharp pair of shears. Make your cut just past a bud that will grow in the direction you want, away from the center of the tree. All of the decisions are made in light of the fact that many apple trees are what is known as " spur bearing'. This means the apples are on spurs  rather than on the actual branch.

If you prune off a lot of spurs you will reduce the yield considerably. I try to limit the height of my trees somewhat by pruning off the leaders and forcing the tree to grow horizontally  instead.Other spots to consider are branches that are to low, branches that are rubbing another branch, and branches that are very close to another branch. Often you have to decide which is the main objective since doing everything would leave you with a  lone stalk! Yearly pruning gives you a chance to correct faults before they are a big deal.
This last picture is of all the scion wood I saved to graft onto root stock later this spring. As long as the tree you are pruning from is not patented stock it is perfectly fine to save these and do your own propagation.  Root stock can be purchased for a variety of purposes including cold hardiness, dwarfing and semi-dwarfing.